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The articles
- I
San Lorenzo CathedralWhat is the unexploded shell inside Genoa's cathedral?
The story behind the armour-piercing naval shell displayed inside Genoa's cathedral, and what visitors actually see.
- II
The Rolli PalacesHow do you get inside the Rolli palaces outside the Rolli Days?
Which Rolli palaces can be visited on an ordinary day, which open only sometimes, and how the Rolli Days work.
- III
Via Garibaldi and the Strada Nuova MuseumsWhich of the three Strada Nuova museums should you see if you only have one?
A guide to choosing between Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria Tursi when time allows only one.
- IV
Day TripsCan you do the Cinque Terre as a day trip from Genoa?
The Cinque Terre from Genoa in a day: the train time, the crowds, and whether Camogli serves better.
- V
Day TripsIs Portofino worth a day from Genoa, or should you go to Camogli instead?
Portofino or Camogli: which coastal day trip from Genoa actually earns its place on a short visit, and why.
- VI
Getting HereHow do you get from Genoa airport into the city with luggage?
How to get from Genoa's airport into the city center with luggage, by bus, taxi, or via Milan.
- VII
Getting HereWhich Genoa station should you get off at, Principe or Brignole?
A practical guide to Genoa's two main stations, which end of the city each serves, and how to choose.
- VIII
The Righi Funicular and the FortsHow do you reach the forts above Genoa without a car?
A funicular from the edge of the old town, a path along seventeenth-century walls, and four forts on the skyline — a half day from the centre with no car and no tour.
- IX
The CaruggiIs it safe to walk the caruggi, and which lanes should you take?
Genoa's medieval quarter has a reputation. Here is what is actually true, which streets are busy and which are not, and how to walk one of Europe's largest old towns without worrying.
- X
The Aquarium of GenoaIs the Aquarium of Genoa worth the ticket, and when should you go?
What is actually inside Italy's largest aquarium, how long it takes, how to avoid the queue on the quay, and the one part of it visitors argue about.
- XI
ItinerariesWhat can you see in Genoa on a six-hour cruise stop?
A plan for a short day in Genoa from the cruise terminal: what is close, what is worth the walk, and what to leave for a longer visit.
- XII
Eating & DrinkingWhere do you eat farinata and focaccia the way Genoese do?
Genoa's best eating is cheap, fast and eaten on foot: chickpea farinata from a copper pan, oily focaccia at any hour, and fried fish from a counter in the arcade.
- XIII
Getting AroundWhich of Genoa's lifts and funiculars are actually worth riding?
Genoa runs ten public lifts, two funiculars and a rack railway on the ordinary bus ticket. Here is what each one is for, which are worth a detour, and how to use them.