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1. I
   The Righi Funicular and the Forts

   How do you reach the forts above Genoa without a car?

   A funicular from the edge of the old town, a path along seventeenth-century walls, and four forts on the skyline — a half day from the centre with no car and no tour.

2. II
   The Caruggi

   Is it safe to walk the caruggi, and which lanes should you take?

   Genoa's medieval quarter has a reputation. Here is what is actually true, which streets are busy and which are not, and how to walk one of Europe's largest old towns without worrying.

3. III
   The Aquarium of Genoa

   Is the Aquarium of Genoa worth the ticket, and when should you go?

   What is actually inside Italy's largest aquarium, how long it takes, how to avoid the queue on the quay, and the one part of it visitors argue about.

4. IV
   Itineraries

   What can you see in Genoa on a six-hour cruise stop?

   A plan for a short day in Genoa from the cruise terminal: what is close, what is worth the walk, and what to leave for a longer visit.

5. V
   Eating & Drinking

   Where do you eat farinata and focaccia the way Genoese do?

   Genoa's best eating is cheap, fast and eaten on foot: chickpea farinata from a copper pan, oily focaccia at any hour, and fried fish from a counter in the arcade.

6. VI
   Getting Around

   Which of Genoa's lifts and funiculars are actually worth riding?

   Genoa runs ten public lifts, two funiculars and a rack railway on the ordinary bus ticket. Here is what each one is for, which are worth a detour, and how to use them.

• The CaruggiIs it safe to walk the caruggi, and which lanes should you actually take?
• Getting HereWhich Genoa station should you get off at, Principe or Brignole?
• Getting HereHow do you get from Genoa airport into the city with luggage?
• Day TripsIs Portofino worth a day from Genoa, or should you go to Camogli instead?
• Day TripsCan you do the Cinque Terre as a day trip from Genoa?
• The Rolli PalacesHow do you get inside the Rolli palaces outside the Rolli Days?
• Via Garibaldi and the Strada Nuova MuseumsWhich of the three Strada Nuova museums should you see if you only have one?
• San Lorenzo CathedralWhat is the unexploded shell inside Genoa's cathedral?